Boulevard Brewing Seeyoulator Doppelbock

Seeyoulator Doppelbock
Boulevard Brewing Company, Kansas City, Missouri
Style: Cedar-Aged Doppelbock
Serving Style: 750 ml Bottle

Aroma: Woody with sweet caramel malt beneath. Undertones of dark fruit and herbs.

Appearance: Deep, clear mahogany. Large and persistent, creamy, tan head. Pretty beer.

Flavor: Prominent malt flavors; toffee, toast, bread crust, and hints of coffee, raisins and figs. Moderate bitterness balances the sweet malt with cooling herbal hop flavors. As the beer warms subtle spicy notes from the cedar make an appearance; cinnamon, clove, and allspice. Alcohol is noticeable. The dry finish lingers on toffee, herbs, and earth. Vaguely distracting phenolic impression giving the faintest suggestion of something Belgian yeasty.

Mouthfeel: Medium-full body, yet easy to drink. Creamy with low carbonation. Somewhat warming.

Overall Impression: This is a nice winter curl-up-by-the-fire kind of beer. The cedar-wood spice adds a layer of complexity to the already complex doppelbock malt. I’m not sure where that slight phenolic note came from. The wood perhaps. It was a bit distracting, but not enough to spoil this otherwise enjoyable beer.

Anchor Humming Ale

Anchor Brewing Company’s promo for Humming Ale, their fall seasonal release, states that “HUMMING is an ancient term used centuries ago to describe both ales and beers.” This tie to beer history is one that piqued my interest. Presumably the use here of the words “ales” and “beers” refers to the olden days when beers were made with hops and ales were un-hopped. (To find out more about the different uses of the terms “ale” and “beer” through time check out Martyn Cornell’s Zythophile blog. It’s geeky stuff, but fascinating if you are into that kind of thing. I’m into that kind of thing.) But what of this term “humming?”

Numerous internet searches only turned up one historical reference. An 1889 book titled The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: an Entertaining History, by Charles Henry Cook, John Greville Fennel, and J. M. Dixon has this to say:

“Another epithet applied to ale, and denoting great strength, was ‘humming,’ and a reason for the term is shown by the extract from a letter from John Howell to Lord Ciffe (seventeenth century), who, in speaking of metheglin, says ‘that it keeps a humming in the brain, which made one say that he loved not metheglin because he was used to speak too much of the house he came from, meaning the hive.’ The humming in the head would be equally applicable to the effects of ale as of metheglin, though the hive would only apply to the latter. The same idea is sometimes expressed by the term hum-cup, as in the lines from the old Sussex sheep-shearing song, beginning :—

‘Tis a barrel then of hum-cup, which we call the black ram.”

Another reference to Humming Ale in the same book is this poem by Charles Dibdin the younger that relates a tale of the socializing power of beer.

THE BARREL OF HUMMING ALE.

Old Owen lived on the brow of an hill,
And he had more patience than pelf;
A small plot of ground was his labour to till,
And he toiled through the day by himself.
But at night crowds of visitors called at his cot,
For he told a right marvellous tale ;
Yet a stronger attraction by chance he had got,
A barrel of old humming ale.

Old Owen by all was an oracle thought,
While they drank not a joke failed to hit;
But Owen at last by experience was taught,
That wisdom is better than wit.
One night his cot could scarce hold the gay rout,
The next not a soul heard his tale,
The moral is simply they’d fairly drank out
His barrel of old humming ale.

From these references it would seem that the term “humming ale”, while perhaps not exactly ancient, refers to some sort of strong ale. And Anchor’s Humming Ale is sneaky strong. It’s deceptively light body masks a surprising 5.9% ABV.

Here’s my notes:

Humming Ale
Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco, California
Style: Something very much like a strong bitter
Serving Style: 12 oz Bottle

Aroma: Citrusy hops; orange mostly with some grapefruit pith. Lightly sweet caramel malt lies beneath the hops. Softly fruity.

Appearance: Voluminous and persistent ivory head. Light amber color with slight haze.

Flavor: Hops dominate. Solidly bitter, but not excessive. High levels of hop flavor; earthy, floral, grassy, orange/grapefruit pith. Grainy sweet malt barely balances at first, but comes in more fully as the beer warms with caramel notes making an appearance. Orange notes are also enhanced with warming. Finish is dry with lingering hops and light sweetness.

Mouthfeel: VERY light body, almost thin. Surprising for the 5.9% ABV.  Medium carbonation.

Overall Impression: Basically this is a hopped-up English bitter with a pumped-up alcohol content. Light, easy to drink, and clearly on the hoppy side, with hops carrying through and through; aroma, bitterness, and flavor clear into the finish. Let it warm up a bit or the hops become too aggressive and harsh. The alcohol content was a surprise.

The Jacket from Crispin Cider

I met briefly with Joe Heron, CEO of Crispin Cider yesterday; always a pleasure. I was fortunate to walk away with a pre-release bottle of a new, very limited-edition, 8.3% apple wine called The Jacket. The Jacket is a blend of four apple-wines that is aged in Jack Daniels barrels. The first and second parts of the blend are the undiluted base of The Saint and Lansdowne, Crispin’s Artisanal Reserve ciders fermented with Belgian ale yeast and Irish ale yeast respectively. The remaining portions are a Colfax varietal apple-wine and a wild-fermented apple-wine.

The name is obviously inspired from the Jack Daniels barrels used for aging. A less obvious inspiration is the band My Morning Jacket, one of Heron’s favorites. This is an extremely limited release; only 1000 cases were made. The Jacket will debut on October 28th in Louisville, at a St. Crispin’s day event benefiting the Louisville Youth Orchestra. Look for a Minnesota release on or near that date.

Here’s my notes:

The Jacket
Crispin Cider Company, Minneapolis, MN
Style: Barrel Aged Apple Wine
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Deep. Earthy. Applesauce with brown sugar. Background whiffs of bourbon that stick in the nose. Oaky vanilla.

Appearance: Murky gray-brown. Light carbonation bubbles. Not exactly pretty to look at, but the appearance is appropriately earthy and mysterious for the flavor and aroma.

Flavor: Deep, dark and mysterious. My grandmother’s homemade applesauce. Earth, oak, and must. Loamy. Notes of vanilla, wood and bourbon that ebb and flow in and out with each sip. Lightly tart acidity. Gentle alcohol. It finishes tart, but then lingers on apple-pie-like raisins and brown sugar. This apple wine conjures an image of an old, graying, wooden crate that has sat for decades in a barn.

Mouthfeel: Full-bodied and warming. Lightly spritzy. Alcohol warms all the way down.

Overall Impression: There is a lot going on here. Sip this one slowly over time and let all the flavor sensations bounce around in your head. This is a thinking person’s cider; deep, rich, dark and old. It wants food. Maybe pork stewed with exotic spices. Or just savor it on it’s own.

Schell’s Stag Series Barrel Aged Schmalz’s Alt

As the August Schell anniversary celebration in New Ulm approaches, I am getting toward the end of my own celebration of all things Schell. I finally got to try this year’s Oktoberfest the other day. I had it at the Renaissance Festival, so I don’t have formal tasting notes (aroma: turkey? Or is that sheep dung?). But I did find it tasty. Appropriately balance toward the caramelly Munich-type malt, but with a balancing spicy bite.

Today I post notes for the first in the Stage Series of specialty and experimental beers. This is a new direction for Schell’s and one that I’m excited about. While I am a devotee of the classic styles, it’s always fun to see a brewery stretch their muscles. For this first Stag Series beer they aged a small batch of one of their earliest specialty beers, Schmaltz’s Alt, in Pinot Noir Barrels. The base beer is one of my favorites from Schell’s and the idea of barrel aging it sounds great. The thing about experiments is that they don’t always work. That doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be done.

Here’s my notes:

Stag Series #1
August Schell Brewing Company, New Ulm, Minnesota
Style: Barrel Aged Northern German Altbier
Serving Style: 22 oz Bottle

Aroma: Toasty, Caramel malt and vinous fruits. Vanilla oak character underlies.

Appearance: Dark brown with ruby highlights. Clear. Ample, creamy, beige head that stuck around for a while.

Flavor: Caramel and melanoidin malt with hints of chocolate roast. Subtle herbal hops with moderate bitterness. Vinous fruit flavors; grape, cherry. Vanilla and wood from the oak barrel. Light, tart acidity in the background.

Mouthfeel: Medium body, but struck me as a bit thin. Medium-low carbonation. Creamy.

Overall Impression: This one didn’t quite work for me. I love Schmaltz’s Alt on its own. In this case, however the caramel and toast/roast of the beer seemed to be doing battle with the fruit and acidity from the wine barrel. The parts were all there, alt, wine, and wood. They just didn’t quite work together. A worthy effort that just didn’t quite hit the mark. Looking forward to Number 2 in the series, a Wild Rice Farmhouse Ale.

Schell’s Firebrick

August Schell Brewing Company is kicking off its 150th anniversary week this weekend with special deliveries to every New Ulm bar and liquor store. The deliveries will be made by Ted and Jace Marti, 5th & 6th generation descendents of the brewery’s founder August Schell. Hearkening back to the early days they will be making the rounds in a replica of their 1800’s beer wagon and a restored 1948 Flexible Clipper bus. Here’s what their press release has to say.

Schell’s Brewery will be making special ceremonial deliveries in its vintage 1800’s horse drawn beer wagon replica to kick off it’s declared 150th Anniversary week.  A team of two horses will pull the beer wagon.  The wagon will be lavishly decorated in garland and flowers, reminiscent to the extravagantly decorated beer wagons in Germany during its Oktoberfest celebrations.  Schell’s will also be using their newly restored 1948 Flexible Clipper bus to make these deliveries.  Schell’s will be delivering a commemorative gift to each of the bars and liquor stores in New Ulm as a special thanks to those organizations for helping the brewery reach its 150th Anniversary. Ted Marti, president of the August Schell Brewing Company and his son Jace Marti, the sixth generation, will be making these commemorative deliveries.  Other members of the brewery will also be along helping with the deliveries.

I’ll continue my salute to Schell’s with tasting notes for Firebrick.

When I first moved to Minneapolis from Chicago in 2002, I was unfamiliar with the local beer scene (what there was of it at the time). Although I was very much into craft beer, I was also less familiar with beer in general than I am now. In Chicago I was able to buy beer in the grocery store. The selection was limited, but as I went there every week, I could easily pick up a sixpack whenever I was there. I almost never went to liquor stores in the years that we lived there.

Upon discovering that beer was unavailable in Twin Cities grocery stores, I made a trip to Zipp’s to see what I could find. It was like I had walked into heaven. Multiple coolers full of awesome beer. Feeling a bit overwhelmed, I grabbed a Schell’s sampler pack and beat a path home. I fell in love with these beers, especially Firebrick. For many months after the move, the Schell’s sampler pack sustained me beer wise.

Here’s my notes:

Firebrick
August Schell Brewing Company, New Ulm, Minnesota
Style: Vienna Lager
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Sweet toffee and bread crust that reminds me of German rye bread. Light spicy continental hops.

Appearance: Amber and clear. Moderate head persists moderately.

Flavor: Malt dominates the flavor profile with toffee, bread crust, and slight nuttiness. The bitterness balances without getting in the way of the malt. Spicy hop flavors. Finish lingers a bit on sweet toffee and bread crust. Crisp, clean lager character.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light body. Crisp with medium carbonation. A bit of creaminess.

Overall Impression: In the days when my beer appetite was sustained by the Schell’s sampler pack, Firebrick was my favorite Schell’s beer. It remains up there near or at the top. Delicious, luscious yet refreshing, easy to drink. I recently was in another city searching for a Vienna lager. Couldn’t find one. Wished I had Schell’s around.

Schell’s Hopfenmaltz

Another tribute to August Schell. It’s their 150th anniversary. To help celebrate they released a series of special draft-only beers, some based on recipes culled from the archives. They asked beer drinkers to vote for their favorite. An amber lager received the most votes and became the special anniversary release, Hopfenmalz. Here’s my notes:

Hopfenmalz
Augusts Schell Brewing Company, New Ulm, Minnesota
Style: Amber Lager
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Grainy, toffee, and caramel malt complemented by herbal and citrus hops; tangerine and peaches.

Appearance: Dark orange-amber. It appeared lightly hazy at first but cleared as it warmed. Full, rocky, off-white head that stuck around, ultimately falling into a light film of bubbles on the surface.

Flavor: Malt dominates; rich, toasty, caramel, and brown sugar. Assertive but not over-the-top bitterness balances, without overwhelming the malt. Hints of dark fruit; figs or raisins. Hoppy  light fruit notes as well. The tangerine and peach from the aroma return. Herbal hops compliment like a sauce on the main course. This beer reminds me of an English bitter, but with more intense flavors and a crisp lager finish. Many clearly articulated parts that form a solid whole.

Mouthfeel: Medium body, but with a mouth-filling, weizen-like character, almost chewy. Medium carbonation.

Overall Impression: Rich and mysterious, yet utterly drinkable. Nice complement of caramel and herbal/fruity hops. Reminds me of cooking. In fact, this is a beer made for food. My neighbors are grilling and the aroma of grilled meat, smoke and the beer are melding perfectly. This would go great with grilled meats, roast turkey, or even a caramel desert.

Schell’s Pils

Continuing with my modest anniversary salute to August Schell Brewing, I’ll stay on the light side. Schell’s Pils is a beer for which no lengthy introduction is needed. So I’ll get right down to it. Here’s my notes:

Pils
August Schell Brewing Company, New Ulm, Minnesota
Style: German Pilsner
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma:  Spicy hops under-girded by grainy sweet and bready malt.

Appearance: Crystal clear and golden colored. Fluffy white head that sticks around for a while, leaving lace on the glass with each sip.

Flavor: Sharp hop bitterness and flavor through and through. The bitterness has bite, but isn’t over the top; it’s a pilsner, not an IPA. Flavorful spicy hops with notes of pepper, fresh herbs, and licorice. Malt remains in the background; sweet and grainy with hints of fresh bread. The finish is dry and biting.

Mouthfeel: Medium body. Medium-high carbonation. Crisp.

Overall Impression: The pronounced hop character and subdued malt make this immediately identifiable as a German style pilsner. And it’s a great example of the style, one that could put many of the locally available German brands to shame. Crisp, light, easy-to-drink. A perfect accompaniment for many foods (I had it with sushi). A classic.

Sierra Nevada Tumbler Autumn Brown Ale

Every year since 2005, autumn at Sierra Nevada Brewing Company meant the release of Anniversary Ale. Until 2007 this American pale ale style offering was only available in the brewery’s Chico, California tasting room/pub. Increased demand led to the beer being offered in bottles after that.

This year, the brewery is putting an end to this tradition and starting a new one. Instead of Anniversary Ale, they have released Tumbler as their autumn seasonal. Called an “autumnal brown ale”, the website boasts of its “gracefully smooth malt character” from the use of malt “within days of roasting at the peak of its flavor.”

Here’s my notes:

Tumbler
Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, Chico, California
Style: Brown Ale
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Caramel and grainy sweetness are accentuated by toast and light coffee roast. Subtle earthy hops let the malt take center stage. Hints of raisin.

Appearance: Medium-dark brown and clear. Pours with an ample beige head that lasts and lasts.

Flavor: As in the aroma, malt is the star; caramel, toast and nuts with light chocolate and coffee in the finish. Earthy and minty hops offer a cooling counterpoint to the malt. Medium bitterness with a crisp Burton character balances the sweetness. Background flavors of minerals, salt, and even coconut reveal themselves as the beer warms.

Mouthfeel: Medium body with medium carbonation. Nice creamy texture.

Overall Impression: I have stated in blog posts that one of my defining characteristics of a great beer is articulation of flavors. This beer has that. Malt, hops and other background characteristics are all detectable in and of themselves, yet they come together to make a tasty totality. Tumbler is a very well-made beer. But I would be disappointed by anything less from Sierra Nevada. The earthy hops and sharp, but subdued bitterness make a great counterpoint to the nutty/toasty malt. A nice beer for a chilly autumn eve.


Schell’s Zommerfest

August Schell Brewing Company in New Ulm is celebrating 150 years of beer making this month. This is a huge deal. They have big plans for the official celebration mid month. You can read all about them here. I encourage folks to get down there and help celebrate.

I tasted a lot of Schell’s beers while researching my September Star Tribune column featuring the brewery. For the column, however, I am limited to 500-ish words. I can’t talk about very many beers, nor can I go into any great detail about them. As my own small contribution to the anniversary celebration, I will publish my full tasting notes for many of the Schell’s beers on this blog over the next couple of weeks. As it is a summer seasonal and it’s time is nearly done, I’ll start with Zommerfest.Here’s my notes:

Zommerfest
August Schell Brewing Company, New Ulm, Minnesota
Style: Kölsch
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Sweet pils malt. Bready. Faintest hop aroma, herbal, hint of passion fruit or blackberry. A bit yeasty. Simple, but alluring. Keeps calling me back for another sniff.

Appearance: Golden. Crytal clear. Light white head that dropped quickly.

Flavor: Hops take a more prominent position in the flavor than in the aroma. Bitterness is moderate, but more than enough to balance the delicate malt. Bitterness lasts all the way through, but softly, not offensive or in the way. Mid-palate the sweet, grainy malt briefly takes the spotlight and then fades again into the dry finish. Only a lightly lingering sweetness remains. Hops have an herbal and light blackberry character with hints of licorice. It’s all very delicate and soft-spoken, but certainly not without intrigue.

Mouthfeel: Light body. Moderately spritzy carbonation. Crisp lager character.

Overall Impression: The first time I tasted this beer I didn’t care for it. I don’t know what I was thinking. Light, delicate, and yet so full of flavor and subtle complexity, this is a fantastic summer sipper. Clean, crisp, and quenching. This is the kind of beer I encourage folks to taste in order understand the subtle beauty of beer that doesn’t wack you over the head.


Tallgrass Oasis

I have been neglecting the collection of beers in my basement. On the road for the last two and a half weeks, I simply haven’t had much time to sample or write.  I have some catching up to do. Gotta take one for the cause, you know. Look for a number of tasting note posts in the days and weeks to come.

Tallgrass Brewing Company of Manhattan, Kansas is a relative newcomer to the Minnesota market. This brewery from the tall-grass country held a particular interest to me. I have family in Kansas and spent many a summer vacation there while growing up. It has always been a paradoxical place to me; on the one hand barren, desolate, and boring, and on the other a realm of incredible beauty and childhood adventure (as long as you get off of the interstate). My parents met while attending Kansas State in Manhattan.

Minnesotans’ first opportunity to taste the Tallgrass beers came in June at the St. Paul Summer Beer Fest. I spent a good deal of time talking to they guys from the brewery in their booth and found them to be friendly and passionate. The sample of Oasis that I had on that day piqued my curiosity. I looked forward to the opportunity to try it again in a more controlled setting. Here’s my notes:

Oasis
Tallgrass Brewing Company, Manhattan, Kansas
Style: Extra or Imperial ESB
Serving Style: 16 oz. Can

Aroma: Malt balanced featuring caramel and biscuit. Light earthy and orange citrus hops. Definitely English in character.

Appearance: Pours with an abundant, creamy, tan head that last long into the glass. Dark amber in color and clear.

Flavor: The flavors initially follow the aroma except that the emphasis is switched from malt to hops. The reported 93 IBUs provide a bracing bitterness that lasts into the finish and beyond, but the bitterness lacks the characteristic crispness of an English ESB. Hop flavors are earthy with hints of orangey citrus. It’s not so balanced to hops that the malt is covered up. Rich caramel, toast, and biscuit malt offer ample support with unexpected notes of roast and chocolate coming at the finish as the beer warms. As with the aroma it has a clear English character. Notes of alcohol are present, perhaps a bit too present. A chalkiness, presumably from water treatment, is also perceptible.

Mouthfeel: Medium body with medium carbonation. Alcohol warming is present.

Overall Impression: A solid Extra ESB, tasty and drinkable. I found the alcohol presence to be a distraction and felt the roasted character was too high. I love the simple caramel malt of classic English bitters. While not a critique of this beer in particular – I would gladly quaff another – I do have philosophical issues with the imperializing of the style. English bitters, standard, best, or extra special, are meant to be session beers. They are flavorful and yet easy to drink. They don’t mess you up too badly, even after several pints. They are perfect beers as they are. Why mess with that?