The Power of Pairing Beer and Food

I facilitated a beer dinner last night at the Dining Studio in Minneapolis. The main course was a ribeye of prime beef with a bleu cheese potato gratin. I paired this course with Traquair Jacobite strong scotch ale flavored with coriander. As I made my way around the room there was one gentleman who was not overly fond of this beer. He had pushed his glass away and gone back to the leftovers of the earlier two beers. When I asked him what it was he didn’t like about it, he said it tasted too much of chocolate. I guess he wasn’t a fan of chocolate, at least not in his beer. He swore to me though that he would try it with the ribeye.

When I came back to his table a few minutes later, he had pulled the glass back toward himself and it was now half empty. This time he said that he loved the beer. While he didn’t like it on its own, the food pairing had mellowed the chocolate flavors and enhanced the dark fruit flavors, making the beer not just palatable to him, but pleasurable.

Flavors played off of each other really do affect one another. It’s a nice testament to the power of pairing the right beer with the right food.

Summer Beers

I recently heard a National Public Radio commentator say that the weather in Minnesota is miserable nine months of the year and then the other three months are miserable in a whole other way. Well, it’s the middle of July and we find ourselves in those other three months when the two days of spring have passed and hot, sticky, summer weather takes over from the deep freeze. It’s a great time for a lazing on the patio with a cold beer. I have been drinking a lot of wheat beers this summer and that has me thinking about summer beers in general.

Summer is a time for light refreshing beers. When the mercury rises you don’t want to be weighed down by a thick, full-bodied beer. Nor do you want a lot of alcohol enhancing the already draining effects of the hot sun, leaving you in need of a nap after the first beer. Lean and crisp is the order of the day. But this needn’t mean resorting to flavorless light lagers. There are a slew of flavorful beers and beer styles that are perfect for steamy summer sipping.

I mentioned above that I have been drinking wheat beers this summer. Generally, any beer with a large amount of wheat in the recipe will make a great summer beer. Wheat gives beer a refreshing zip and a substantial body that isn’t too heavy. The high level of carbonation often found in wheat beers adds to their refreshment. There are a few styles of wheat beer to choose from. German wheat beers or Hefeweizen are the most substantial of the lot, full-bodied and cloudy from wheat proteins and suspended yeast. It is the yeast that gives these beers their great summer zip, filling them with the flavors and aromas of citrus, banana, and clove. Often these beers are served with a wedge of lemon on the glass. There is much debate over whether this is proper. The Germans do it, so I don’t see why you shouldn’t. I prefer to skip the fruit, but suit yourself and don’t let anyone get down on you for drinking your Hefe with a wedge. My favorite authentic German wheat is Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier from Munich. Minnesota’s own August Schell Brewing in New Ulm also makes a great German style wheat beer that recently won a gold medal for the category in the US Open Beer Championship.

Other great wheat beer styles are American wheat and Belgian Wit. American wheats tend to be lighter and hoppier than their German cousins without the yeasty banana and clove character. The classic American wheat beer is Bell’s Oberon, tasty with its hint of orange. Other favorites of mine are Goose Island’s 312 Wheat and Crack’d Wheat from New Glarus. The latter is the most bitter of the three with a citrus/apricot Amarillo hop character. It’s a great summer beer for hop heads. Belgian Witbier is lighter still, with a spicier Belgian yeast character that is enhanced by the subtle use of coriander and bitter orange peel in the brewing process. The classic here is Hoegaarden from Belgium, but I prefer Sterkens White ale. If you want to keep your beer buying dollar in the US, try Witte from Brewery Ommegang.

An often overlooked style of beer that is great for summer is Pilsner. A true pilsner beer is like American lager on steroids. Full of rich bready/grainy malt and pronounced spicy European hop character. The original and still among the best is Pilsner Urquell, a malty bohemian style pilsner with assertive, perfumy Saaz hop flavor and bitterness. But look for it in cans or on draft. If you get the green bottles it will most likely be skunked from exposure to light. Another good Bohemian pilsner is Lagunitas Pils from Lagunitas Brewing of Petaluma, California. For a great German style pilsner (less malt and higher bitterness) try Victory Prima Pils. It is a world-class pilsner in which I detect the lightest touch of citrusy American hops.

A couple of lesser known summer beer styles are the German Kölsch and the Belgian Saison. By law, a true Kölsch can only be brewed in the Goose Island Summertime AleGerman city of Cologne, however many American brewers make respectable Kölsch-style beers. A good Kölsch is like a more subtle and delicate version of a pilsner, with soft grainy malt and a lighter touch of spicy German hops. Fermented with ale yeast, Kölsch can have a softer mouthfeel and a very light fruitiness, although colder fermented versions can have a lager-like crispness. If you want to try an authentic German Kölsch, the only one I have seen in the Twin Cities is Reissdorf Kölsch. For a Kölsch-style beer brewed close to home try Goose Island Summertime Ale or Lake Superior Kayak Kölsch. Our own Summit Brewing will soon release a Kölsch as the first in their Unchained Series. Look for it in August.

Fantom SaisonSaison is a Belgian style farmhouse ale that was originally brewed to keep farmhands hydrated when access to potable water was limited. While there is great variation in this style, Saison is typically a light and effervescent beer with a golden/orange color. Bready malt is countered by a relatively high bitterness and black pepper spicy notes from the yeast, often accompanied by light stone fruit flavors. The finish is dry and spicy. The benchmark for the style is Saison DuPont from Brasserie DuPont in Tourpes, Belgium. My personal favorite is Fantóme. It has a more pronounced citrus character and a hint of wild yeast funkiness that I like. From the US I recommend Saint Somewhere Saison Athene, or the Boulevard Smokestack Series Saison. Locally both Surly and Lift Bridge brew examples; Cynic Ale from Surly and Farm Girl from Lift Bridge, which is now available in bottles.

I could go on and on about summer beers. They are light, refreshing, and easy to drink with enough variety to suit any palate. There are so many beers and styles that I haven’t even mentioned here, Cream Ales, fruit beers, even some Belgian sours; the list could be endless. But I think I’ll stop here and go sit on my patio with a nice, tall wheat beer.

Tasting Beer

An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink
By Randy Mosher

Tasting BeerWe all know how to drink beer, but how many of us take the time to really taste beer? How often do you notice and appreciate the color, clarity, and foamy head of the beer in your glass? When was the last time you really thought about the perfect food match for that bittersweet and citrusy Double IPA you pounded with friends at the bar? Can you recognize umami in your beer? After reading Randy Mosher’s newest book Tasting Beer, you may just start to think differently about the world’s oldest adult beverage.

Beer is finally coming into its own, or maybe coming back into its own as Mosher explains in the brief history of beer at the beginning of the book. While wine has long been viewed as a beverage worthy of savoring, debating, and eulogizing, beer has been seen as a simple and inferior drink. But beer once held a status similar to wine. Mosher cites many examples of the glorification of beer, like the Sumerian Hymn to Ninkasi, as he walks the reader through a brief and amusing history of beer and brewing from the ancient world to the current craft beer explosion. It wasn’t until after World War I when changing tastes, ingredient shortages, brewery consolidation, and economic considerations precipitated the deterioration of beer into the pale yellow lager that is now considered “beer” in most of the world. But Mosher makes clear that all that changed in the early 1980s with the birth of the American microbrew movement. Beer can once again take its place next to wine as a beverage worthy of “tasting.”

In 239 pages Mosher provides a primer of beer and beer appreciation. He explores the science of taste and smell, debunking the old tongue mapRandy Mosher that we all grew up with and bringing us up to date with the science by adding umami (think savory or meaty flavors) and fat to the list of perceivable flavors. He offers a thorough sensory vocabulary of beer, identifying the main ingredients of beer and describing the range of possible flavor and aroma contributions of each and how these individual contributions add up and present themselves in a finished beer. In the chapter titled Tasting, Judging, and Evaluation, Mosher writes about the importance of the tasting environment, lays out a simple beer tasting process (smell, look and sip, taste with your nose, analyze and score), as well as explaining the different processes and criteria one might use in different beer tasting contexts such as judging for competition or evaluating for quality control. The final chapters present a breezy survey of the major style categories with descriptions and examples to taste. His explanations of the historical development of some styles are particularly good and point out just how often economics drives the creation of new beer styles.

Mosher’s writing style is both in-depth and easy to read. He writes with an engaging humor that is a bit like listening to your favorite uncle who happens to be a leading scientist and historian. Tasting Beer is a must read for anyone seriously interested in beer and isn’t too intense for those with a more casual interest. One thing though is certain, after reading Tasting Beer you just might approach your next beer with a little more respect.

Quenchers

An unknown (at least to me) Chicago beer gem.

Quenchers SaloonIn the last post about the Goose Island Brewpub, I mentioned going to hear a friend play jazz. We had been trying to find an opportunity to get together and this sounded fun. Besides, he said the bar had “a decent beer selection.” Free music played by a good friend and decent beer. What did I have to lose? So after a couple beers at Goose Island I headed off to Quenchers Saloon at the intersection of Fullerton and Western, nestled between the Logan Square and Bucktown neighborhoods.

Based on my friend’s description I expected a typical place with five or six decent beers on tap. Instead I walk into what may well be the oldest specialty beer bar in Chicago with over 260 beers to choose from, including twenty plus taps. The selection was eclectic with beers from all over the world and running the full gamut of styles. No particular region or style was overrepresented, which I found refreshing in the current beer bar atmosphere of “more Belgians is always better.”

The ambiance at Quenchers isn’t outstanding. The decor is a nondescript not-quite-sports-bar, not-quite-Irish-pub, not-quite-anything mish-mash with an interesting antique apothecary back bar that I did like a lot. It was not at all crowded when I was there, which was disappointing to me. The music was good and a bigger crowd would have been nice. Also be advised that they only take cash. There is an ATM if you find yourself short, like I was. Prices are manageable at $5 to $6 for tap beers. And they have free popcorn.

At Quenchers I indulged in two Scottish ales. The first was Belhaven Scottish Stout. Recommended to me by Robert The Brucea friend, this is a rich 7% ABV stout full of bittersweet chocolate malt flavors. It’s a little on the sweet side and has that hint of yeast derived smokiness that one can detect in the Belhaven Scottish Ale. It’s full bodied with a pleasant creamy mouthfeel. The next beer was Robert The Bruce, a strong Scotch ale from Indiana’s Three Floyds. This beer is all about the malt. Lightly roasted flavors form the background for a blast of sweet caramel malt. I also found this beer to be brimming with dark fruit flavors, giving it an vaguely Belgian character.

The Quenchers website states that the bar opened in 1979. While I lived in Chicago, I drove past it hundreds of times. I never knew what it was. All the times I have been back and asked people to recommend places to get a good beer, Quenchers never came up. I’m glad I know about it now.

Goose Island Brewpub in Chicago

Goose Island Clybourn BrewpubIf there can be said to be any benefits of the current economic troubles and the collapse of the real estate market, it is that the original Goose Island Brewpub is still open. The pub opened at the North and Clybourn sight in 1988. Last year the owner of the building was trying to sell to developers, thus ending the Goose Island lease. But the market tanked, the building couldn’t be sold, the lease was renewed, and this little piece of Chicago beer history remains.

I spend a couple of months a year in Chicago working. As the brewpub is close to the place where I work, I spend a bit of time there on my nights off. I call it my Chicago office. Aside from enjoying many good and even great beers, I have also met some very interesting characters in the place and had some fantastic and even downright strange conversations with people. I love the ambiance. I am happy to see it has survived.

Last night I was going to see a friend play some in a jazz combo and had a couple of hours to kill before heading to that venue (more on that in another post), so I stopped off at the “office” for a beer. I started heavy and full-flavored with a cherry wood smoked doppelbock and ended light with a 3.2% cask pale ale. Here’s my notes:

Cherry Wood Smoked Bock
Aroma: All hickory BBQ smoke. The smoke has a woody character instead of the meaty character of most traditional Beechwood smoked beers. Faint hints of caramel malt and dried dark fruits lurk way in the background.
Appearance: Dark mahogany with ruby highlights. Beautiful, thick off-white head that lasted a long time and left lace on the glass. Clear.
Flavor: That wonderful cherry wood smoke is the dominant flavor. Like the aroma, it’s a woody smoke instead of a meaty smoke. It has a charred BBQ pit quality that is very nice. Sweet caramelized raisin maltiness and dried cherry notes provide a solid counterpoint to the smoke. There is a faint spicy heat in the finish that reminds me of chipotles.
Mouthfeel: Crisp and well attenuated. Medium body but rich and creamy. Medium carbonation.
Overall Impression: A wonderful blend of dried dark fruits and woody BBQ smoke. Although I was assured that there were no chili peppers used, this has all the goodness of a dark sweet chipotle ale without the undrinkable heat that most often comes with those beers. This would go great with any BBQ.

21st Amendment Pale Ale
Aroma:
Toffee and caramel malt with very light pine resin hops.
Appearance: Light copper and clear. Poured with two fingers of creamy off-white head that persisted.
Flavor: Caramel, toffee and grainy malt is the dominant flavor. Very light resinous hop flavor and medium-low bitterness. Light orange citrus character. Seems to have flavors fruity flavors of an English yeast strain. Loads of malt character for 3.2% ABV.
Mouthfeel: Medium-light body. Low carbonation.
Overall Impression: They call this a light American Pale Ale. It seems English to me in every way except the choice of hops. The hop flavors are characteristic of American varieties. Whatever you want to call it, it was tasty and even stood up after that super-flavorful smoked bock.

Scandinavian Beer Night

In the last ten years the Scandinavian countries have been experiencing an explosion in craft brewing resembling what happened in this country twenty-five years ago. Until very recently light lagers produced by just three or four large industrial breweries were the only beers available in Sweden, Norway, Denmark, and Finland Now small breweries are springing up all over, making tiny Denmark a world leader for number of Bottlesbreweries per capita. The brewers responsible for this boom are turning out beers influenced by all the major brewing traditions including Belgium, England, and of course the United States. In the last year, More and more of these beers have shown up on store shelves right here in Minnesota. Maybe the state’s heritage is drawing them here, a kind of second-wave of Scandinavian immigration. Whatever it is, these beers were drawing my attention. I decided it was time to try some of them, so “Scandinavia” was the theme for the March meeting of my Beer Tasting Group.

For those who have not read the earlier postings in this blog, I organize a monthly beer tasting group. It is an informal gathering of beer knowledgeable people who come together once a month to taste and talk about new beers. Each month has a theme. Past themes have included “That beer on the shelf that you have always looked at but never actually bought”, Cheap Beers, and “Category 23.”

In all, we tasted thirteen beers from the region, with a range of styles that included ESB, a handful of Double IPAs, two or three Barleywines, as well as porters and spiced ales. From this sampling we made a couple of general observations. First, the Scandinavian brewers, perhaps taking a cue from the Americans, seem to like big beers. Eight of the thirteen we tasted were at 7% ABV or higher with the biggest topping out at 13%. Second, these beers more closely resembled English and continental beers than their more brash American counterparts. One or two of the bottles boasted of the “balanced” character of the beer inside. There were no over-the-top-hop-bombs here. Even in the Double IPAs, one with 100 IBU of bitterness, there was a strong enough malt backbone to render the beer almost sweet.

The only bad beer of the batch was a Brown Ale from Nøgne-Ø of Norway. The bottle we had was described by the group variously as “heavily oxidized”, “garbagy”, and “sour milk.” I have had this beer on three separate occasions. Each time is was a radically different beer, ranging from toasty and delicious to excessively roasty, to whatever was happening with this bottle. It suggests that this brewery has some issues with consistency. Another that met with some dislike was Kloster Jul, a Belgian inspired holiday ale from Ølfabrikken of Denmark. The label describes a beer brewed with tart cherries and spiced with anise root. The dominant flavor was a yeast derived green banana. The cherry notes were subtle but noticeable and partially covered by a pronounced cinnamon and anise spice. Despite the intense banana and somewhat clumsy spicing, I didn’t mind this beer altogether. Others were less generous.

There were many very good beers sampled. I’ll start with Huvila ESB from Finland. This beer was all caramel and toffee malt balanced by restrained floral English hops. It was every bit an ESB and a right good one at that. Another English style ale that everyone loved was the 2006 Little Korkny Ale from Denmark’s Nørrebro Bryghus. This super-fruity English style barleywine explodes with cherries, apricots, plums and a whole cornucopia of other fruits. It is a sweet, malt-forward beer, but it has enough hop bitterness to keep it from being cloying. This would be a good beer to cellar for a year or two.

My favorite beer of the night was Beer Geek Brunch Weasel from Mikkeller. The Mikkeller brewery is an interesting story. Based in Denmark, brewer Mikkel Borg Bjergsø has an itinerant brewing practice. He rents into breweries all over Europe and the United States creating interesting beers that reflect both his own brewing aesthetic and the tastes of the regions and breweries in which he brews. The Beer Geek Brunch Weasel is brewed at Nøgne-Ø and is itself a bit of an interesting story. This coffee infused imperial oatmeal stout uses Civet Cat coffee to achieve an intense yet smooth coffee flavor. For those who don’t know, Civet Cats eat coffee beans; supposedly only the best. The enzymes in their digestive systems work on the beans to give them a distinctive flavor (as one might imagine). The scat of these bean-munching felines is then collected. The beans, once freed from their fecal pod (and one hopes cleaned) become the rarest and most expensive coffee in the world. I can only say that this is the best coffee beer I have ever tasted. It is well worth picking up a bottle.

The full list of beers at Scandinavia Night included Huvila Arctic Circle, Huvila ESB, Nøgne-Ø Brown Ale, Nøgne-Ø Double IPA, Carnegie Stark Porter 2004 & 2006, Mikkeller/Three Floyds Oatgoop, Mikkeller Big Bad Worse Barleywine, Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch Weasel, Ølfabrikken Kloster Jul, Haand Bryggeriet Double Dram, Nørrebro Bryghus North Bridge Extreme, and Nørrebro Bryghus Little Korkny Ale 2006. Those in attendance were Jonathan Crist, Gera Exire Latour, Joel Stitzel, Paul Dienhart, Al Boyce, and Michael Agnew.

A Very Expensive Keg

I was at the Original Goose Island Brewpub in Chicago last night. The guest beer on tap was Boon Mariage Parfait Gueuze. Remembering how good it was at the Hop Leaf last week, I had to make it one of my beers for the evening. I wanted to get a taster of it so that my friend could taste it. The waitress informed me that they weren’t doing tasters of it because their single keg had cost $500. That is one costly keg.

The Hop Leaf, Chicago, Illinois

On my drive down to Chicago this week I was listening to a Brewing Network podcast. Two topics from the show stood out to me. The first was a discussion of the current generation of twenty-somethings who have never known a time when there wasn’t good beer. The craft brewing revolution began around the time that they were born and exploded when they were ten or eleven years old. They have never known a time when a trip to the store meant a choice between ten different light lagers, all basically the same beer in different labels. They cannot remember the days when “good beer” meant St. Pauli Girl, Becks, or Lowenbrau Dark. Many were not even born when Anchor Steam and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale came crashing onto the national scene, changing everything. The second topic that stuck in my head from the drive was a Forbes Magazine list of the top-ten beer bars in the country. Fairly high on the list was the Hop Leaf in Chicago. It had been probably ten years since I had visited the Hop Leaf so I resolved to stop in on this trip. While there, the two stories from the podcast came together.

The Hop LeafNestled on Clark Street in the bustling Andersonville neighborhood on Chicago’s North Side, The Hop Leaf is an intimate bar with a vaguely European ambiance. It was a tad loud for my taste in the main bar area, but otherwise comfortable. On this trip I discovered a back dining room that I never knew existed despite having spent a few nights drinking beer there while I still lived in Chicago. As you have to go through it to get to the bathroom, I don’t have a clue how I could have missed it. I made a mental note to come back on a night when I haven’t already eaten dinner to enjoy a pot of steamed mussels and frites. The bartender assured me that the Mussels-for-one pot contained “more mussels than you can count” for $11. The rest of the menu looked good too, with entrees ranging from $14 to $25.

But I had come for the beer. I counted 41 draft offerings and the bartender says the ever-changing bottle selection hovers around 250. Belgian beers are well represented here. They seemed to make up the bulk of The Hop Leafthe beer list and probably half of the draft selection. Pretty much every Belgian style is represented from light Wibiers to Belgian Pale Ales, Abbey Styles, and the sourest of the sours. But Belgians aren’t all they have and there is something here to please every beer palate. I started with the Amber Ale from Dark Horse Brewing. Expecting a simple American Amber, I got a Belgian instead. This tasty beer was like an American Amber with a Belgian twist. Caramel malt with an assertive spicy hop bitterness was underscored by banana and black pepper from a Belgian yeast strain. It was unexpected and delicious.

My next beer was Atomium Grand Cru. This strong wit style beer is brewed with barley, spelt, maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, orange, and coriander. It is refreshing and fruity with a full body and dry finish that is enhanced by the spiciness of the rye. I capped the night with a glass of Boon Mariage Parfait Gueuze. This is sour beer the way it should be. Cidery, vinous, acidic, fruity, and funky. Notes of apricot, pear, tobacco, and farm animals. When the bartender came to take my order for another beer I told her that I had to stop because nothing they had on tap could match the beer that I had just consumed.

As I looked around the bar the two stories I had heard on the Brewing Network came back to me. Here I sat at the bar in the Hop Leaf, number whatever on the Forbes Magazine list, and I couldn’t help but notice the number of twenty-somethings, especially women, enjoying great beer. Watching people order, it was clear they either knew what they were ordering or were willing and eager to experience some new beer taste sensation. This is normal to them. This is beer to them. I take comfort in that.

He Said Beer, She Said Wine

He Said Beer She Said WineSo which beverage pairs better with food, beer or wine? Dogfish head owner and brewer Sam Calagione and sommelier Marnie Old have been testing this question with beer vs. wine dinners across the country. In these dinners, a beer and a wine are paired with each course of the meal and diners are asked to vote for the beverage that they feel was the better pairing. According to their recent book He Said Beer She Said Wine, the answer is not quite as obvious as wine drinkers might believe or as clear cut as beer drinkers might desire.

He Said Beer She Said Wine is a decent primer on food pairing for either beer or wine. It begins with chapters giving the basics for each beverage, including ingredients, production process, and the flavor characteristics of major styles/varietals. Each writer then ties these things back to food pairing. For instance, Old writes about the source of and sensory perception of acidity in wine. She then goes on to explain how that acidity interacts with salt in foods to smooth out and enhance the flavors of each. Calagione describes the bittering effect and flavors of hops and explains why hoppy beer is a good match for rich fatty foods. Both Old and Calagione do a good job of outlining the basics of beer and wine tasting and providing some general guidelines for food pairing.

From the basics the book moves on to chapters dealing with different foods. There is a chapter for cheese, Sam Calagione and Marnie Oldfruit, vegetables, shellfish, fish, poultry, meat, fruit deserts, and other deserts. Each chapter includes a section illuminating why the characteristics of wine or beer make each the perfect match for a given food group. Again, each writer does a reasonably good job of explaining the relative strengths and weaknesses of their chosen beverage as it relates to each type of food. Old sings the praises of white wine with fish, while being forced to admit that spicy foods are a tough match for most wines. Calagione trumpets the beauty of a variety of beers with meat, while conceding the difficulty of dealing with some vegetable treatments. Each chapter ends with a selection of dishes and a specific beer or wine pairing suggestion for each.

The final chapter is a guide for staging your own beer vs wine event at home. It includes common sense tips, recipes, and pairing suggestions.

The whole book is couched in the language of the beer vs wine challenge. While I love a good competition and can talk trash with the best of them, this was the part of the book that I found annoying. Each individual food section ends with a back-and-forth between the writers in which they supposedly made the arguments for their libation directly to one another. While this was sometimes witty, in most cases there was little of substance here. After a couple of chapters I was tempted to skip over these pages and move on to the meaty stuff. Despite this, He Said Beer She Said Wine is a good read for anyone interested in learning more about pairing beer with food.

So which beverage does pair better? Calagione and Old report that the results at their events have always been close. The winner usually edges out the loser by only one course and the overall tally is even.