Some Calm Reflection on Surly’s Big Brewery Announcement: Part One

On Monday night the Twittersphere lit up after Surly’s announcement of a planned 20-million dollar brewery. Tweets and re-tweets proliferated at a blistering pace, causing even my lowly @aperfectpint handle to “trend” locally. (Who’d of thought?) Anxious Surly fans hung on every message, waiting for additional details. The next day comment threads on internet news stories and Facebook posts called the announcement “the most exciting brewing news & brewery in Minnesota since the end of prohibition.” They declared that the new brewery was something that Surly “deserved” and decried groups that might oppose the project as bullies who are only “out to line their own pockets” (as if Surly isn’t looking to make money from this).  The comments suggest that to some Surly fans, the project has become like the second coming of Ninkasi. A few of Surly’s own pronouncements have made it sound like a magnanimous act of civic engagement; a boon to the community. To opponents of the plan, from the Minnesota Licensed Beverage Association to the Minnesota Beer Wholesalers Association, it almost amounts to restriction of trade.

Let’s take a moment to cut through the hyperbole look at what’s really going on.

Surly’s Proposal

The Basic Plan

Surly wants to build a two-story, 60,000 sq ft facility. It would house a new brewery that would give them an annual brewing capacity of 100,000 barrels. The building would also house a 250-seat restaurant, a 30-foot bar, a roof-deck beer garden, and an “event center” for weddings, concerts, business conferences, and other types of events. The project is expected to cost $20 million.

Surly’s Claims About the Plan

Surly calls the new brewery a “destination brewery.” In an online article in Twin Cities Business Magazine, Surly Founder Omar Ansari says that the facility will be a “hub for beer tourism”, tapping into a growing phenomenon of beer drinkers planning travel around brewery visits. In the same article he claims it will be “’a complete beer experience’ and will become a part of the metro area’s ‘cultural fabric.’ ‘[The facility] would be another great amenity for the Twin Cities,’ much like other attractions such as the Mall of America and Target Field”.

The economic impact of the project, according to an announcement on the Surly Brewers Blog, includes the creation of 150 permanent jobs and 85 temporary construction jobs. Additional revenue would be generated by the operation of the event center. Although, in a Star Tribune piece Ansari admitted that those numbers may be “a bit pie-in-the-sky at the moment.”

My Take

There is no doubt that the project would have an economic impact for the state. Increased production means increased tax revenue from the brewery. A number of jobs will be created, including increased brewery staff, restaurant staff such as managers, kitchen workers, and front-of-house.  The event center may require event planners. And of course there will be construction jobs.

Beer tourism is definitely on the rise, and given Surly’s almost cult-like popularity there is no doubt that the new brewery will become a popular destination. However, the comparison to the Mall of America and Target field seems to me to be a grandiose stretch. It certainly won’t compare to those landmarks in terms of economic impact from tourism.

When you get right down to it, all Surly is really proposing is a great big brewery with a restaurant.

The real significance of Surly’s plan lies not with the thing itself, but with the implications of the proposed changes to the laws governing the three-tier system in Minnesota. More on that in tomorrow’s installment.

Read part two
Read part three

Winterfest 2011 Recap

Photo by Mark Roberts

The bagpipes blared at precisely 7:00 on Friday night, signaling the start of Winterfest 2011 at the Minnesota History Center. The doors opened and the crowd of 700 local beer fans, some of whom had been waiting in line for an hour or more, flooded into the hall. Because I was doing educational sessions at the event, I had arrived early to set up. I got to witness the opening rush from the inside for the first time.

I attend trade shows for the college campus-activities market. There is a novelty attraction in the college circuit called Wax Hands, which consists of students dipping their hands into vats of hot wax and ending up with brightly colored molds of the “hang-loose” sign, “peace” sign, or some other such sign. As soon as the doors of the exhibit hall open, students make a frenzied dash to be the first in line for Wax Hands. I happened to be standing at the Surly booth Friday night when the doors opened. Surly Brewing Company is the Wax Hands of the local beer world. It was fascinating to watch as the line went from nothing to a long snake down the hall in a matter of seconds.

Photo by Mark Roberts

In fairness to Omar, Todd, and crew, Surly did have some interesting beers for sampling. Molé Smoke took their smoked Baltic porter south of the border with cinnamon, cocoa, and chili peppers. It had a slight tingling bite, but the chili heat wasn’t over the top. I wouldn’t have wanted a pint of it, but I enjoyed the sample. Pentagram, the single-barrel version of what will become Five, a multi-barrel, blended, sour beer brewed for their fifth anniversary, was very tasty and took the Great Snowshoe award as the crowd favorite.

But Surly’s weren’t the only intriguing beers on the floor. Looking at the program the day before the event made my taste buds tingle with barrel-aged Belgians, smoked beers, infused beers, fruited beers, and even some plain-old beers. There were three brand new breweries to check out. It was an awesome lineup as the members of the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild brought their best to the fest. With so many beers on offer, I didn’t get to try everything I wanted to, but I did sample more than a few and found some standouts.

Photo by Mark Roberts

Superior from Fitger’s Brewhouse was perhaps my personal favorite. This was a strong version of a German Schwarzweizen or black wheat beer. At 9% ABV, it had a kick, but was still delightfully easy to drink. Chocolate flavors blended with doughy wheat malt and the unique banana and clove of the German wheat beer yeast. Brewmaster Dave Hoops first tasted the style on one of his annual trips to Germany and immediately wanted to make one. He said that this first attempt hadn’t quite hit the mark he was aiming for, but that he is continuing to dial-in the recipe. If this one missed the mark, I can’t wait to try it when he thinks he’s gotten it right. Fitger’s also got my vote for most attractive table display (see photo below).

Photo by Mark Roberts

Another standout for me was Port Odin from Town Hall, a traditional Baltic Porter that was aged for 18 months in French-oak, port-wine barrels. This one was rich and dark with deep roasted-malt flavors and hints of sourness beginning to peek around the edges. Complex and mysterious, Port Odin joined Surly’s Pentagram and Fitger’s Superior as my top three picks for the festival.

Other favorites for me included Dark Knight from Barley John’s, Flat Earth’s Winter Warlock, Fallen Angel Abbey Ale from Rock Bottom, and Vulcanus Rex cherrywood smoked scotch ale from Great Waters. I was very excited to see and sample beers from three new Minnesota breweries, Harriet Brewing, Big Wood Brewing, and Carmody Brewpub. Harriet’s Devine Oculust was very nice, as was the Scanlon IPA from Carmody. Unfortunately I didn’t get to Big Wood’s booth until the very end, when my palate and mind were both blown. The beers seemed tasty, but I’ll have to pay the guys a visit to make a more appropriate assessment.

Once again the festival was an intimate and well organized affair. Traffic flowed smoothly in the crowded halls of the History Center. The food was delicious and plentiful. The attendees seemed genuinely interested in sampling the beers and talking to the brewers. Cudos go out to Laura Mullen who put the festival together. Winterfest remains for me the best beer festival of the year.

Photo by Mark Roberts

#MNCleanPint

Sick of being served beers with no head? Missing that delicate lace down the side of the glass as you drink? Well now you can do something about it.

A Twitter movement is underway that seeks to recognize bars who treat their beer right by pouring it into “beer-clean” glassware. A beer-clean glass is one that is residue free; no soap scum, no grease, no bright pink lip prints. It’s a glass that will provide for good foam and nice lacing. It’s the glass that your beer deserves. Heck, you’re paying enough for it; they ought to at least put it in a clean glass.

Whenever you find yourself enjoying a nice beer in a properly prepared glass, just tweet your location and a picture of that perfectly-laced empty using #MNCleanPint. Let others know which Twin Cities bars are doing right by their beer. By doing so you also enter yourself to win some great prizes.

Here’s more from the #MNCleanPint website:

We are searching for the cleanest pints in Minnesota and we need your help!
We want to recognize those quality bars that are serving up quality beer in “beer clean” glasses!
When you are done enjoying your tasty beverage just tweet a picture of your empty beer glass with all that beautiful lacing, telling us where you are drinking and use #MNCleanPint!
Contest runs from Feb 1st -28th! Submit as many photos as you want, at as many bars as you want!  When it’s all said and done, the votes will be tallied, and a winner will be chosen!  There will be an official announcement on MNBeer.com as well as a party at the winning bar to celebrate!
But WAIT! There’s more!  Every time you tweet a photo you are automatically entered* to win tons of great prizes including: An assorted glassware collection, a kegerator conversion kit, a $100 bar tab**, and lots more!!
PLUS there will be prizes (3) for the most creative photos of the empty glass!
Sponsored by JJ Taylor of Minnesota, MNBeer.com, Cicerone.org, MicroMatic, A Perfect Pint, & Boelter.
Must be 21+ to win (and to drink in bars…duh!)
*All submissions for the bar that wins will be entered for the grand prizes.
** Bar tab is ONLY valid the night of the celebration party, at the winning bar. Tab must be split by 3 or more people. No change will be given, and no carry over for any unused portion of the tab.

Sam Adams Noble Pils

In the world of brewing ingredients there are only five hop varieties that can be called “noble”; Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnang Tettnanger, Spalt Spalter, Hersbrucker Hersbrucker, and Saaz. Grown only in Bavaria and the Czech Republic, these noble hops are prized for their spicy, herbal, and floral aromatic properties. They provide the signature flavors and aromas of German lagers and pilsners.

In 2009 the Boston Beer Company introduced a new beer called Noble Pils as part of their annual Beer Lovers Choice® program. While most lagers make use of one or two of the noble hops, the brewers at Sam Adams blended all five to make this new beer. Noble Pils won the votes of over 67,000 drinkers, giving it a place in the regular lineup.

Last year Noble Pils was released as a new spring seasonal beer. I first tried it last January while standing in the snow on a wet, frigid evening at the Beer Dabbler Winter Carnival event in St. Paul’s Mears Park. I loved it. I went back for multiple samples. Thus, it was with great expectation that I opened my first bottle of this year’s release. I still love it. What can I say? Here’s my notes:

Noble Pils
Boston Beer Company, Boston, Massachusetts
Style: Bohemian Pilsner
Serving Style: 12 oz bottle

Aroma: Grainy, pie-crust pilsner malt leads. Light perfume and floral hop notes overlay. Subtle sulfur underneath.

Appearance: Golden color with brilliant clarity. Moderate, fine-bubbled, white head is moderately persistent.

Flavor: Hops lead off with spicy, herbal, and floral notes; pepper and licorice. Some very interesting baby-aspirin orange overtones. The grainy malt sweetness stays underneath to just offer support, but comes in stronger mid-palate. Sharply bitter on the finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium body and medium carbonation. Crisp and clean.

Overall Impression: I just plain like this beer. I have since the first time I tried it. I’m a sucker for pilsners at any rate, but the delightful mix of hop tastes in this one really does it for me. And I love the hints of orange that wind their way through the flavor. I have lots of it in the cellar and that makes me happy.

Surly Turns Five

In 2006 Omar Ansari realized a dream and turned his homebrewing obsession into a profession. Together with brewmaster Todd Haug, stolen from the Minneapolis Rock Bottom brewpub, they quickly took their upstart brewery from obscurity to near cult status. Despite a distribution area that didn’t extend beyond the Twin Cities metro, Surly became a nationally sought-after brand within a year of putting beer on the street. Even today you can get virtually anything you want on the underground beer trading network in exchange for a four-pack of Furious. Their beer inspires a legion of nearly fanatical followers. Over the last five years Surly has seen tremendous growth, adding huge amounts of capacity and still not meeting demand. In an industry marked by rapid growth, Surly’s success has been an anomaly. To celebrate five amazing years Omar, Todd, and the whole Surly crew want to say thank you with fan-appreciation events all over town throughout the month of February.

With these anniversary events, Surly is taking it back to where it all began, staging them at bars and restaurants that were the brewery’s first tap accounts. They will be offering an array of special releases including Moe’s Bender – a coffee, chocolate, vanilla oatmeal brown ale aged on oak, Chili Smoke, and rare firkins like Cherry Wood Bender, Tea-Bagged Furious, and Oak-Aged Abrasive. They will also unleash Pentagram, a single barrel version of their fifth anniversary ale Surly 5. Surly 5 is described by the brewery as “a 100%Brettanomyces (wild yeast) fermented dark ale aged in used red wine barrels.” Five will be a blend of 60 different barrels. Events will include giveaways of surly gear and Surly beer, including rumored bottles of their hard-to-get Darkness Imperial Stout.

Here is the schedule of anniversary events.

Wednesday, February 2 – Blue Nile, 2027 East Franklin Avenue, Minneapolis

Friday, February 4 – Winterfest, Minnesota History Center, 345 Kellogg Boulevard West, Saint Paul

Saturday, February 5 – Mackenzies, 918 Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis

Monday, February 7 – Muddy Pig, 162 Dale Street, Saint Paul

Tuesday, February 8 – Acadia Event, 329 Cedar Avenue South, Minneapolis

Thursday, February 10 – McCormick & Schmick’s, Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis

Tuesday, February 15 – Happy Gnome, 498 Selby Ave, Saint Paul

Wednesday, February 16 – Pizza Nea, 306 East Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis

Thursday, February 17 – Stub & Herb’s, 227 Oak Street, Minneapolis

Sunday, February 20 – Triple Rock, 629 Cedar Avenue, Minneapolis

Monday, February 21 – Grumpy’s NE, 2200 4th Street NE, Minneapolis

Wednesday, February 23 – Bryant Lake Bowl, 810 West Lake Street, Minneapolis

Sunday, February 27 – Mac’s Industrial, 312 Central Avenue, Minneapolis

Monday, February 28 – Groveland Tap, 1834 St. Clair Avenue, Saint Paul

Wednesday, March 2 – Whistle Binkies, 3120 Wellner Drive NE and 247 Woodlake Drive SE, Rochester

Spring Beer Classes at Cooks of Crocus Hill

I am pleased to announce new beer classes at Cooks of Crocus Hill for spring. I’ll be teaming up again with Master Sommelier Leslee Miller of Amusee Wine and Chef Mike Shannon for one of our now-legendary beer/wine pairing dinners. And I’ll be working with Heavy Table’s Becca Dilley and James Norton, authors of the Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin, for some awesome pairings of local beer and cheese. Check these out.

The Big Thaw: Wine and Beer Pairing Dinner
April 15th, 6:00 PM-9:00 PM, $75
With Leslee Miller and Mike Shannon
It’s OK to come out now … the cold war is over! Join Chef Mike, Sommelier Leslee and Cicerone Michael at Cooks for a night of fabulous drinks and eats sure to thaw out your tail feathers and get your palate prepped for all the great gourmet goodies that spring has in store. Menu: Bacon and Crab in Endive; Asparagus Tip Vinaigrette; Spring Vegetable Primavera; White Bean Cassoulet with Sausage; Apple-Cherry Turnovers. This one WILL sell out.

Local Cheese and Ale
May 4th, 6:00-9:00 PM, $70
With Becca Dilley and James Norton
Even though we may disagree about The Favre and whether or not you should buy alcohol on Sundays, Minnesota and Wisconsin can at least come together on a few things, like the importance of good beer and cheese! Cicerone Michael Agnew will enlighten you on the ales, while Becca Dilley and James Norton, authors of The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin, will take you on a tour of the best fromages these states have to offer. Menu: A Selection of Cheeses from Minnesota and Wisconsin Cheesemakers Paired with Craft Beers from Brewers in Both States.

Sign up online at the Cooks of Crocus Hill website.

Fulton Beer Buys A Brewery

On their newly re-vamped website, just launched this morning, Fulton Beer has announced that brewing equipment has been ordered and should arrive sometime this summer. I have reported in greater length on the City Pages Hot Dish Blog. Read it! Congratulations guys.

In other news, Harriet Brewing will be having it’s first growler sales at the brewery tomorrow (Saturday) from 1-5 PM. 3036 Minnehaha Ave, Mpls, MN. Be there!

Leinenkugel’s Limited

Back in 1986, Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Company made what the brewery calls its “first ever craft beer”, Leinenkugel’s Limited. (Of course, this begs the question what they had been doing for the previous 119 years, especially those before prohibition, but that’s for another story.) Limited was originally a fall seasonal release, but became a year-round beer in 1990. Because the beer then had “unlimited” availability, the name was changed to Northwoods Lager. It was taken out of production in 2000.

Apparently public clamor for this beer was great enough that Leinenkugel’s is re-releasing it for a limited run.  According to the press release it’s “a slow-brewed blend of four select barley malts – caramel, Munich, Carapils, and Pale – and aromatic, bittering Cluster and Cascade hops.” Limited won gold and silver medals in the premium lager category at the GABF in 1993 and 1991 respectively.

Leinenkugel’s Limited is being released in select markets on February 1st. Here’s my notes:

Leinenkugel’s Limited
Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Company, Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Style: Amber American Lager
Serving Style: 12 oz Bottle

Aroma: Very gentle aromas, but pleasant. Cool and refreshing. Light caramel and sweet malt. Overtones of orangy citrus.

Appearance: Beautiful to look at. Medium Amber color and crystal clear. Large, fluffy, white head that lasts and lasts.

Flavor: The crisp lager character and high carbonation are the first impressions, somewhat overpowering all else. As the beer warms some gentle caramel malt comes in, surrounded by delicate fruity hops with musk melon, orange citrus, and light floral overtones. Bitterness is low, but balances the low level of malt sweetness. Finishes dry with some lingering hints of caramel and orange.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light body. Medium-high carbonation with tiny, champagne-like bubbles; better once it has a chance to de-gas. Crisp.

Overall Impression: This is not a bad beer. In fact, it’s quite pleasant and easy to drink. I just wish there were more to it. I am a fan of subtle lagers. A good Munich Helles is heavenly. But the flavors and aromas of this beer are so delicate that despite being pleasant, it seems lacking. The old show-biz admonition to “leave them wanting more” applies here, just not in the right way.

Matacabras from Dave’s BrewFarm

Anyone who lives up here in the North-Country knows that northerly winds in the wintertime bring frigid unpleasantness. In Minnesota we call them Alberta Clippers. In Spain there are twin arctic winds. The first is called Descuernecabras, the wind that dehorns goats. The second, more vicious twin bears the morbid moniker Matacabras, the wind that kills goats.

Matacabras is also the name of a not-so-menacing beer from Dave’s BrewFarm in Wilson, Wisconsin. The name is appropriate however, as the wind can blow a mean-streak up on the rural ridge where the BrewFarm is situated. It blows hard enough to drive the wind turbine that provides a good percentage of the brewery’s power. As to whether it kills goats…you’ll have to ask Farmer Dave.

Here’s my notes:

Matacabras
Dave’s BrewFarm, Wilson, Wisconsin
Style: Belgiany Specialty Ale
Serving Style: 12 oz Bottle

Aroma: Toasted bread crust maltiness supports the light banana and sugar sweetness of Belgian yeast. Brown sugar mingles with some intriguing fruitiness; candied oranges, raisins, figs. Faint floral aromas float on top.

Appearance: A rocky, ivory-colored head that persists reasonably well. Dark orange/amber color with moderate haze.

Flavor: An herbal, peppery bite of hops and rye greets the tongue at first. That fades mid-palate to reveal toasty, bread-crust malt and loads of candied fruit flavors, brown sugar, raisins, bananas, and a faint tart citrusy note. Alcohol is noticeable and welcome. Finishes dry, with final spicy bite that resolves into long-lingering candied fruit.

Mouthfeel: Creamy and medium-full bodied. Medium-high carbonation lightens it up, but brings some carbonic bite in the beginning. Warming alcohol.

Overall Impression: A Belgian barleywine? An English Dubel? Maybe and Anglo-Belgian Imperial Dunkel? Matacabras offers an ever-changing mix of flavors that roll riotously from one thing to another; at times resolving in articulated layers and at others collapsing together into a chaotic clump. But always that beautiful bread crust.