A Conversation With Deschutes Brewery

The newest brewery to enter the Minnesota beer market is Deschutes Brewery from Bend, Oregon. For the last few days they have been rolling through the Twin Cities pouring beer from a giant barrel-on-wheels that they call “Woody.” A couple days ago Woody was set up outside the Longfellow grill overlooking the river on Lake Street. While he was there I had the opportunity to share a beer with some folks from Deschutes and talk a bit about the brewery, the beers, and their plans for the expansion into Minnesota.

Why come to Minnesota?

If you look at the states in the west where our beers have been available and then look at the states that are next them, in terms of the logical march across the country Minnesota was the next really good market where people already understand craft beer and have an appreciation for it. And there are people here, unlike the Dakotas. And they drink beer. The Twin Cities feel like Portland. We’ve had a great response here. We have been thrilled about how many people had already heard of us. And all the emails, and Facebook posts, and tweets, the whole word of mouth thing has been really cool. It’s been great to see that spread and be welcomed into the craft beer community here. We look forward to seeing where it goes.

What is planned for the Minnesota market going forward?

We’ve always launched new markets with Black Butte Porter and Mirror Pond Pale Ale, and usually just draft. But we had a lot of people on the off-premise side wanting our beer in the market so we brought in the 22 oz bottles of Black Butte and Mirror Pond. We’ll release six-packs of porter and pale and probably Twilight, our summer seasonal, in Minnesota come June. And from there we’ll probably go to our next seasonal and add Inversion IPA and Green Lakes Organic Ale. We’ll also keep throwing the Bond Street Reserve Series bombers out here because we realize that it’s an educated market and people want that sort of thing. We just finished packaging Hop Henge so we sent a couple palates of that and will probably send some more in the next truck. The next one after Hop Henge is our Hop in the Dark Cascadian Dark Ale (aka black IPA). These beers are called the bond street series because our original brewpub in Bend is on Bond Street and that’s where these beers originated.

Hop Henge

Hop Henge is an 8.75% IPA with 95 IBUs of bitterness. We call it an “experimental IPA” because we tweak it every year to get more and bigger and better hop flavors. We also use proprietary hop products that no one else has access to. Our brewmaster, Larry Sidor, was in the hop industry selling hops for ten or twelve years before he came to Deschutes so he knows hops inside and out. He has the hop companies create specific products that nobody else has and one of those is in that beer. We also just try to innovate and keep putting the hops into the beer in different ways. For Hop Henge, hops are added at eight different times in the process. We used whole flower hops, there’s extract in there, there are pellet hops, and there are proprietary hop products, Cascades, Centennials, Citra, and some other hops. We carried 800 lbs of hops up forty-six steps to the tops of our 700-barrel fermenters to drop them into the batch. That was 800 lbs just for two tanks. There are just shy of ten pounds of hops per barrel. Being an American IPA we’re going for high bitterness and big hop aroma, but we still want a drinkable and balanced beer. If it’s too over the top with just bitterness there will be people who can drink one or maybe two, but they’re not going to come back for a whole lot more. So it’s a well balanced beer. It’s high IBUs and full bodied.

The Brewery

Deschutes started as a brewpub in Bend in 1988. In 1993 we opened up a production facility. We opened another brewpub in Portland two years ago. The brewpubs are our pilot systems. We have brewers at each place that get to do whatever they want. They are the ones leading the charge on developing the next brand. Our brewmaster has been brewing beer for thirty years and comes to it from the hop industry. He also owned a vineyard and made wines, so he knows what he’s doing when it comes to fermentation, hops, and beer. We started out doing English ales, but we’ve since branched out. We’re experimenting with a “wheat” beer made from spelt instead of wheat malt. We make a very limited batch sour Flanders red style beer every year.
We’re in 15 states including Minnesota. The goal is to be in all 50 states in the next ten years. Our constraint now is fermentation tanks. We may have to drop a few more tanks to increase capacity before we can open up another state. We outgrew the fifty-barrel brew house so we put in a system that does hundred-and-thirty-barrel batches. With our old brew house we were brewing twenty-four-seven almost seven days a week. We pushed passed what we thought capacity was with that brew house before we put the new brew house in. Now everything is mostly brewed on the new system with some of the specialty stuff still being done on the older system. We are always just trying to improve the process and have the best equipment that we need to brew the best beer in the world.

Craft Brewers Conference: The Highlight Reel

I spent the last few days in Chicago attending the Craft Brewers Conference, a gathering of craft brewers from all over the United States and the World. It was an intense and exhilarating couple of days filled with fun, learning, moments of embarrassing beer-nerd sycophancy, and of course lots of beer. I will be writing several articles to recap the event and posting them both here and on my Ratebeer.com Hoppress blog. The first went up today. Craft Brewers Conference: The Highlight Reel. Check it out.

A pre-dinner smorgasbord.

Odell Brewing Comes to the Twin Cities

I got a press release today from Odell Brewing of Fort Collins, Colorado announcing that they would be starting distribution of their beers in the Twin Cities Metro beginning May 3rd. According to the release,  “Odell Brewing will offer 90 Shilling, 5 Barrel Pale Ale, IPA, as well as its Seasonal and Single Serve beers to Minnesota beer fans primarily in and around the Twin Cities. Brewery representative Todd Ewing will relocate to the area to help with the launch and to develop the new market.”

I have made numerous trips to Fort Collins and Odell is an outstanding brewery who’s beers I stock up on when there. Look for more announcements of release events in the near future.

Deschutes Brewery Black Butte Porter

As long as I’m on a roll I might as well keep playing. I already wrote about Deschutes Brewery’s entry into the Minnesota beer market in my last post on their Mirror Pond Pale Ale. So I’ll just cut to the chase this time and get to the porter. Here’s my notes:

Black Butte Porter
Deschutes Brewery, Bend, Oregon
Style: Robust Porter
Serving Style: 22 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Chocolate and coffee with a slightly smoky roast malt char. Caramel sweetness blends with an oaty bread or cookie dough aroma. Lightest touch of minty floral hops.

Appearance: Dark brown. Appears black in the glass. Very clear. The moderate and creamy tan head persisted moderately.

Flavor: Malt is king with a regal display of chocolate, burnt caramel, and that same oaty, doughy character from the aroma. Like semi-sweet chocolate or chocolate cookies. The caramel sweetness is balanced by moderate hops and roasted malt bitterness and a very light touch of floral and resinous hops flavor. It goes out on a long, sweet, chocolate finish with just a hint of lingering roast bitterness.

Mouthfeel: Medium body. Low carbonation accentuates a creamy, smooth, oily feel that one expects from an oatmeal stout. This beer feels good in your mouth.

Overall Impression: Like the Mirror Pond Pale Ale, balance is key with this beer. It’s full flavored, but doesn’t knock you over the head with it. It tantalizes the taste buds without having to dare you to like it. One could drink several of these without burning out or falling out of the chair. If they don’t use oats in this beer I would like to know what they do to get that rich, creamy, oatmeal character. This remains one of my favorite black beers.

Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale

Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon entered the Minnesota market this week. The sixth largest craft brewery in the country, Deschutes began brewing beer in 1988. They make a full line of seven year-round beers along with several limited release and seasonal offerings. To start with they are bringing their flagship beers to Minnesota, Mirror Lake Pale Ale and Black Butte Porter. A very limited number of cases of their holiday offering Jubel 2010 and their imperial porter Black Butte XXI were also made available this week. Good luck finding any of those. I first encountered Deschutes when I picked up a sixpack of Black Butte Porter on a trip to the west coast a few years back. It instantly became one of my favorites. Now I learn from a brewery press release that I am not alone. They claim it is the number one selling craft porter in the nation. I had a bottle of the Mirror Pond Pale Ale with grilled turkey brats tonight. Here’s my notes:

Mirror Pond Pale Ale
Deschutes Brewery, Bend, Oregon
Style: English Best Bitter
Serving Style: 22 oz. Bottle

Aroma: A light citrusy floral hop rides atop sweet grainy malt with touches of caramel. The aromas are fairly balance between the two. Background breaths of orange and English yeast fruitiness. Very much in the English style. There is something very tea-like in the aroma, like orange pekoe. Nice.

Appearance: Dark orange/amber and crystal clear. The small, off-white head dissipated quickly leaving a gauzy film of foam on the surface.

Flavor: Flavors balance delicately between malt and hops. The moderately high bitterness hangs on throughout, supported by grassy hops character like fresh-mowed hay. The malt carries this well with grainy sweetness and light caramel. Undertones of orange, English yeast fruit, and a flavor some call “farty” that is frequently found in English beers. But this is a good thing. The finish is dry, dry, dry with lingering bitterness.

Mouthfeel: Light body with low carbonation. Crisp and dry with a slight tannic quality.

Overall Impression: The Deschutes website says this is a “quintessential American pale ale.” I say it’s a very nice English bitter, and I do love a nice English bitter. Great balance and articulation of flavors. Each flavor comes clearly but works together with the others to make a delicious whole. Earlier in the day I had a glass of Coniston Bluebird Bitter, my desert island beer. Mirror Pond Pale Ale compares very favorably.

Malty vs. Hoppy Flavors in Beer

When doing Perfect Pint beer tasting events I am frequently asked to clarify the difference between “malty” flavors and “hoppy” flavors in beer. Nearly every day someone stumbles upon this blog with the search query “malty beers vs. hoppy beers.” I find that people can often describe the flavors they taste, but aren’t necessarily able to attribute those tastes to one or the other source ingredient. As malt and hops form the base of the beer flavor triangle (yeast being the third point), it seems to me that some attempt at clarification would be useful. We should begin with a basic description of what each of these ingredients actually is.

Malt – Malted cereal grains are the meat and potatoes of beer. They provide the sugars that are fermented by the yeast to create alcohol and CO2. They are the primary source of beer color and contribute significantly to flavor and mouthfeel. The most common of the malted grains is barley malt. Others include wheat, rye, and oats. In addition to the malted grains, some unmalted cereal grains are used in brewing including corn, rice, wheat, rye, oats, and sorghum. Malting is a process of controlled sprouting and kilning of the grains. The sprouting activates enzymes within the grain that begin to break down the hard, starchy insides into simpler carbohydrates, making them accessible to the brewer. Kilning gives the grains differing degrees of color and flavor. There are four categories of brewing malt. Base malts receive the least kilning. They are the lightest malts and make up the bulk of any beer recipe. Crystal or caramel malts are made by allowing enzymes in the grain to convert complex carbohydrates into simple sugars before kilning. Kilning then caramelizes the sugars in the grain. Crystal malts range in color from light to dark with correspondingly intense flavors. Toasted or kilned malts are dry-kilned to a range of colors and flavors. Roasted Malts are kilned at the highest temperatures until they are very dark brown or even black.

Hops – Hops are the spice of beer. They provide bitterness to balance the sweetness of the malt, as well as flavors and aromas ranging from citrus and pine to earthy and spicy. Hops are the cone-like flower of a rapidly growing vine (a bine actually) in the cannabis family. Waxy yellow lupulin glands hidden within the leaves of the flower contain the acids and essential oils that give hops their character. Bitterness comes from alpha acids that must be chemically altered through boiling in order to be utilized. Hop flavors and aromas come from essential oils that are easily dissolved into hot wort, but are also highly volatile. Flavor and aroma hops must be added late in the boil or these properties will be lost with the steam. Hops more than any other brewing ingredient are subject to the phenomenon of terroir, as different growing regions produce hops with different flavor and aroma characteristics. The chief hop growing regions are the Northwestern US, Southern England, Germany, Czech Republic, and China.

So what is the flavor of malt? To begin with, it is helpful to repeat that malt is the source of fermentable sugars in beer. But not all malt sugars are fermentable, some are left behind. Thus any sweetness perceived in beer is the product of the malt. It is also helpful to remember that malt is grain. Think of other products that are made with grain, like bread, crackers, pasta, or polenta. The grainy flavors found in those foods are also found in beer and come from the malt.

Beyond these basic flavors, each type of malt brings its own particular set of flavors. Base malts are logically the most basic and give beer the most basic and grain-like flavors. Common descriptors would include grainy, corn, bready, saltine cracker, and husky. The crystal or caramel malts bring a range of caramelized sugar flavors. Common descriptors for these flavors include caramel, toffee, brown sugar, molasses, and burnt sugar. The darkest of these malts can impart rich dark fruit flavors like plum and prune. When maltsters toast malt the same chemical reactions occur as when you toast bread. The flavors of the toasted malts are correspondingly similar to those of toasted bread and include toast, biscuit, nutty, graham cracker and bread crust. The roasted malts are the darkest of the brewing grains and are responsible for the flavors associated with stouts and porters. They are kilned nearly to the point of becoming charred and have strong roasty and char flavors. Descriptors for these grains include roasted, burnt, smoky, chocolate, and coffee. The roasted grains also give beer bitterness like that found in a cup of espresso.

Aside from the espresso-like, roasted grain bitterness mentioned above, bitterness in beer comes from hops. For people who say they don’t like beer, hop bitterness is the most commonly identified reason. The level of bitterness depends on the alpha acid content of the hops, the amount of hops used, and the length of time the hops were boiled. Bitterness can range from very light, as in Scottish ales and German wheat beers, to aggressive as in American double IPAs.

The hop flowers added to beer contain a large amount of leafy vegetative matter. The flavors associated with hops tend to be correspondingly plant-like. The particular flavors of hops vary with variety and growing region. Hop flavors and aromas tend to fall into one of seven broad categories, Floral, fruity, citrus, herbal, earthy, piney and spicy. More specific descriptors include perfume, rose-like, geranium, current, berry, grapefruit, orange, minty, grassy, woody, resinous, spruce, licorice and pepper.

One great way to help yourself better identify the flavor contributions of malt and hops is to smell and taste the raw ingredients. If you live near a homebrew store or brewery, stop in and taste some grains. The flavors released as you chew are the same ones that will show up in beer. While I wouldn’t recommend chewing on raw hops, you can smell them. Rubbing a hop flower between your fingers releases the essential oils. What you smell is what you get. Some malt-forward beer styles to try are Scottish ale, doppelbock, Vienna lager, and English barleywine. Some hop-forward styles are pilsner, American pale ale, India pale ale, and Double IPA.