Yearly Archives: 2010

Minnesota Craft Beer Week

Posted on by

American Craft Beer Week, a week-long celebration of all things craft beer sponsored by the Brewers Association, takes place May 17 – 23. Not to be left out of the national celebration, several breweries, beer bars, and beer stores are joining forces to bring you Minnesota Craft Beer Week. The main events are focused in the 7-Corners and Dinkytown neighborhoods of Minneapolis at Stub & Herbs, Preston’s Urban Pub, and Town Hall Brewery. On Monday, Town Hall will tap American Beer Wheat to kick things off and will have draft specials all week long. Stub & Herbs is having a variety of guest bartenders from local breweries, including Fulton, Lift Bridge, and Flat Earth, with Flat Earth putting over thirty beers on tap on Wednesday. Preston’s will be featuring specials on West Coast and Mountain Region beers. You can see the whole schedule of events here.

I will be doing a special tasting at Preston’s from 6 – 7 PM on Wednesday. Come on in and say “Hi.”

Odell Saboteur Brett Barrel Brown Ale

Posted on by

Odell Brewing Company has a five-barrel pilot brew house that they use to brew test batches and small release beers. One of the things to come out of this brew house is what they call the Single Serve Series. Initially intended only for draft service in their tasting room, some of these beers have been so popular that they decided to do bigger batches and bottle them for markets outside their Fort Collins, Colorado home. I had the opportunity to try one of these recently. Saboteur is a big, drinkable, sour, brown ale that I believe becomes available in the Twin Cities this week. The last time I visited the brewery in Fort Collins, they had just filled a bunch of brand new oak barrels to start a barrel-aging program. I can only imagine that this beer represents what is now being produced in some of  those same barrels. Here’s my notes:

Saboteur
Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins, Colorado
Style: Brettanomyces Brown Ale
Serving Style: 750 ml Bottle

Aroma: A pleasant acidic sourness hits the nose right off, followed by toasty and lightly roasty malt. Some leathery brettanomyces notes. Caramel sweetness comes in as it warms.

Appearance: Dark brown and clear. Appears black. The moderate off-white head persisted moderately.

Flavor: Starts with intense burnt sugar and molasses. Background notes of coffee and chocolate joined by anise and loads of dark dried fruits like raisins, prunes, and cherries. The wild character is almost non-existent at first, but comes in more strongly as the beer warms, displaying leathery barnyard character. After a final shot of bitterness, the sweet finish lingers on raisins and caramel. Rich and sweet.

Mouthfeel: Full-bodied with moderate carbonation. Light alcohol warming. Rich and mouth filling with some creaminess.

Overall Impression: It took a few sips to take this one in. It is a big and complex beer, much bigger than I expected, with light brettanomyces funk balancing thick, sweet malt. The fruitiness is beautiful. I would have liked a bit more of the wild character. I wonder if this would come out more fully with some age. Additional aging might also allow the brettanomyces to dry it out, something that would benefit this beer.

Smoked, Grilled, and Sauced: A Beer and Wine Pairing Experience

Posted on by

Friday night I co-taught a wonderful class at Cooks of Crocus Hill in St. Paul. My co-presenters for the class were Chef Mike Shannon and Level III Sommelier Leslee Miller. Thirty-six guests were treated to a five-course meal of grilled and smoked delights each paired with either a beer or a wine. The final two courses were paired with both. As we ate and drank our way through the deliciousness the three of us traded off explaining the pairings, offering up knowledge, and weaving tales about our respective passions.

As we offered our introductions, guests enjoyed a light, sparkling, wine from Portugal. Famega Vinho Verde was a delicious white with a gentle touch of spritz and fantastic strawberry and pear fruit. I had to comment when Leslee mentioned that its 9.5% ABV made it a “low-alcohol wine that you could drink quite a bit of in an evening.” Coming from the world of beer, when we get above 8% we start talking about strong beers that have to be consumed in moderation.

The first dish that Chef Mike offered up was a twist on the traditional Cobb salad with lightly sauced pulled pork in place of the chicken. I paired this with Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier. Hefewizen pairs well with egg and cured meats, so it was a natural with the boiled egg and bacon on the salad. My main concern was that it wouldn’t stand up to the pulled pork. Guests however commented that the spicy yeast character of the beer really pulled out the flavors of the pork while the full wheaty/yeasty mouthfeel was able to hold its own against it.

The next course was a smoked salmon pizza with Asiago cheese. Leslee paired this with Croatian Korta Katarina Plavac Mali Rosé. This was another light, fruity wine with strawberry and rhubarb notes. It managed to stand up well to the assertive Asiago cheese and the smoked salmon brought out smoky notes in the wine that were not there when tasted alone.

The next course was mine to pair, a grilled Jamaican jerk chicken with a fruity/spicy Caribbean slaw. I paired this with Meantime IPA. The citrus and stone fruit flavors played well with the fruit of the slaw while the hops brought out the spice. This is a balanced English IPA with enough malt to knock heat back again on the way down.

After a short break we returned for the dish that I was really anticipating, a middle-eastern seasoned lamb chop with tomatoes and chick peas. Both Leslee and I took this one on and both pairings were possibly the best of the night. Leslee poured 2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino. This big, Italian red made with 100% Sangiovese grapes had intense dark fruity flavors and spice notes that stood up to the well-seasoned lamb, while tannins in the finish swept away the fat. I paired this dish with Ovni Ale Biére de Garde from Flat Earth Brewing in St. Paul. Caramel, toast, and spicy hops in this beer was another perfect match with the similar flavors in the lamb. Both the wine and the beer were perfect with the dish.

The desert was cheesecake with a sour cherry sauce. I went for Lindemans Kriek with this one. The sweet and sour cherry beer matched the cheesecake flavor for flavor. Leslee chose Schlink Haus Dornfelder, German Sweet Wine. Sweet, but not too sweet, and loaded with cherry fruit notes, this was another great match.

Three hours, five courses, and eight pours after we began a satisfied crowd filtered out of the upstairs kitchen space at Cooks. I had a blast and I believe the guests did as well. I hope to teach another course with Leslee and Mike soon. Thanks to all who came.

ODell IPA

Posted on by

I had the opportunity to sample the IPA from Odell Brewing. This hop-forward, American style IPA is another beer that the brewery will be launching in the Minnesota market next week. Here’s my notes:

IPA
ODell Brewing Company, Fort Collins, Colorado
Style: American IPA
Serving Style: 12 oz. Bottle

Aroma: Bright citrus hops dominate the aroma, leaping out of the bottle before it is even poured. Sharp, crisp, grapefruit and lemon/lime. The hops are backed up by a lightly sweet, grainy malt with hints of caramel.

Appearance: A moderate, rocky, and persistent white head sits atop a medium-amber, crystal-clear jewel of a beer.

Flavor: The flavors follow the aroma. Sharp citrus hops dominate. The assertive bitterness is supported but not quite balanced by simple, sweet, grainy malt. There are hints of light stone-fruits floating around the background. The super dry finish favors bitterness with a lingering citrus pith flavor.

Mouthfeel: Medium body and medium carbonation. Light astringency from the assertive hops.

Overall Impression: A solid American IPA that is definitely meant to showcase hops. The hops have a nice brightness to them, but the bitterness is a bit unbalanced for my taste. I kept waiting for more malt to come through as the beer warmed, but it never did. Not bad, but I like more balance and complexity from the malt side of an IPA.

Local Brewers’ Beers of Spring

Posted on by

Spring arrived early this year. We lived through the first snowless March since records have been kept and April has been even better. Warmer weather and longer days call for a shift away from the heavy, dark beers of winter. Spring means lighter beers, but beers with enough body to tackle the lingering night time chill. Spring is when I begin to crave the bitter American Pale Ales, their citrusy hops flavor giving a bracing wake-up call to the senses. The traditional old-world beers of spring, German maibock and French biére de garde, have sturdy malt backbones supporting spicy hops and yeast character, contrasting flavors to match the seasonal temperature swings. Several of these springtime beer styles are crafted here in the metro by our great local brewers.

Minnesotans love hops, the source of bitterness in beer, and there are plenty of locally produced bitter brews to satisfy these springtime cravings. The most balanced of these is Sweet Child of Vine, the debut India pale ale (IPA) from newcomers Fulton Beer. Only available on draft, the floral hops flavor, moderate bitterness, and balancing caramel malt make this one of the easier drinking versions of the style. More bitter but still balanced, Lift Bridge Brewery’s Crosscut Pale Ale features subtle citrus notes from abundant Cascade hops and grapefruit zest added to the brew. St. Paul’s Flat Earth Brewing calls its Northwest Passage IPA the “bitterest beer in Minnesota.” A step up the ladder in bitterness, body, and alcohol content, Northwest Passage is bracing enough to snap one out of winter hibernation, but has enough warmth and comforting caramel to take the bite out of those sudden springtime temperature drops. Topping the list for hops intensity is Abrasive Ale (formerly 16 Grit), the double IPA from Surly Brewing Company. This nearly 9% alcohol bruiser of a beer is aptly named. The aggressive bitterness gives way to massive citrusy hops flavor that is supported by full-bodied sweet, grainy malt. This is one for hops lovers. Surly is making Abrasive Ale available in cans this year for the first time. The release date was April 12th, but don’t tarry, this one won’t last long.

For the traditional spring beers look no further than St. Paul for Summit Maibock and Flat Earth Ovni Ale biére de garde. Bavarians still celebrate the annual May release of maibock, a hoppier, lighter-colored version of the malty-rich bock style. Summit’s version is appropriately malt forward with grainy sweetness and a quiet toasty background. The sweetness is balanced by moderate bitterness and floral hops flavor.  Biére de garde, a traditional farmhouse ale from Northern France, was originally brewed in early spring and cold-cellared for consumption by farmhands as the weather warmed. Ovni Ale is another beer for malt lovers. On the sweet side for the style, it features rich caramel malt and hints of chocolate with low bitterness and only the lightest touch of spicy hops flavor.

The long-term forecast looks good, so grab one of these great local beers and celebrate spring’s return before summer creeps in.

Odell 5-Barrel Pale Ale

Posted on by

As I posted earlier, Odell Brewing Company of Fort Collins, Colorado is set to launch in the Minnesota market on May 3rd. I have long been a fan of Odell from my many trips to Fort Collins visiting family. 5-Barrel Pale Ale is one of their regular offerings and one that will be rolled out when their beers go on sale in the Twin Cities. Here’s my notes:

5-Barrel Pale Ale
Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins, Colorado
Style: English Pale Ale
Serving Style: 12 oz Bottle

Aroma: Fruity hops are the dominant feature; citrus, blackberry, melon, passion fruit and a hint of resinous pine. Light grainy malt with notes of biscuit and toffee. Simple but elegant.

Appearance: A moderate off-white head dissipates quickly to reveal a beautiful copper/amber color and crystal clarity.

Flavor: Toffee, caramel, and biscuit malt balances the sharp, crisp, Burton ale-like, mineral bitterness. Hop and yeast derived fruits blend well with the malt revealing melon, berry, and orange marmalade. Dry finish. Crisp and refreshing.

Mouthfeel: Medium light body and medium carbonation. Sharp, dry bitterness is not astringent, but has a biting sensation nonetheless.

Overall Impression: A very nice American/English pale ale hybrid. Has the rich malt character and sharp, mineral bitterness of a classic Burton pale ale, but the through-and-through hop flavor and aroma of an American pale. The mélange of fruits from both hops and what I took to be an English yeast strain is amazing. If you are looking for an easy drinking but flavorful pale ale that doesn’t overwhelm you with hops, give this one a try.

Lift Bridge Brewery Buys a Brewery

Posted on by

When Lift Bridge Brewery started making beer almost two years ago, they were brewing at Flat Earth Brewing in St. Paul. I interviewed them at that time and they stated their intention to build their own brewery in Stillwater. Having outgrown Flat Earth, they moved their brewing to the Point Brewery in Stevens Point, Wisconsin. When I spoke with Lift Bridge partner Steven Michael Rinker about this at Firkin Fest a couple months ago, he indicated that they were already outgrowing the available capacity at Point and were closing in on finally buying their own space. Today they announced an agreement to purchase a building with the purchase of a brewery coming soon. Here’s what the press release says.

Stillwater, MN – April 21st, 2010 – Stillwater will be the home of a new brewery in 2010.  Lift Bridge Beer Company is happy to announce that they have chosen a building to develop a new craft brewery in Stillwater.  In the shadows of the Stillwater water tower stands a 10,500 sq. ft. building that will become home to Lift Bridge Brewery in the months to come.  Lift Bridge Beer Co. has entered into an agreement to purchase the building located at 1900 Tower Drive in Stillwater, MN.
Plans are in place to purchase brewing equipment and obtain a brewer’s license.  The 10 year old building will allow for tours, brewing, retail growler and merchandise sales, events and expansion of existing Lift Bridge distribution in the Twin Cities metro area.
The distribution includes kegs and bottles of Crosscut Pale Ale™, Farm Girl Saison®, and the upcoming summer seasonal, Minnesota Tan™.  Lift Bridge is also currently being distributed to other areas of Minnesota and Wisconsin, please check the website www.LiftBridgeBeer.com for specific retailers in your area. The Lift Bridge team is proud to bring a brewery back to Stillwater.

Best of luck guys.

Category 23: Specialty Beers

Posted on by

The May Meeting of the Twin Cities Perfect Pint Beer Club

When: Friday, May 21, 2010
Cost: $25
You must be a member of the club to attend. Go to the Twin Cities Perfect Pint Beer Club to join and RSVP.

In the Beer Style Guidelines of the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) there is a place called Category 23. Like the infamous Area 51 deep in the Nevada desert, Category 23 is a place of mystery and myth. It is a category that only the most intrepid individuals dare to judge. Category 23 is a realm of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas; a wondrous category whose boundaries are that of imagination. You enter this realm by unlocking the door of experimentation and crossing over into…specialty beers.

For this meeting we’ll taste beers that don’t fit anywhere else. We’ll try beers that utilize unusual techniques and abnormal ingredients; beers that mimic traditional or historical styles. In short, Category 23 is the place for any experimental beer that the brewer creates. This is where we will go. Are you up to it?